
Budva Alone
Budva, old walls and open sea.
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Coffee comes in a copper pot with a tiny handleless cup, and the sitting takes a good hour. Afterward, wander the Old Bazaar's stone lanes toward the arch of the bridge over the Neretva.
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SAMPLE
Bosnian coffee is central to daily life in Mostar: a long-handled copper pot, a small handleless cup, a sugar cube, and a square of Turkish delight, in a sitting that takes an hour rather than ten minutes, at a café table on Kujundžiluk or behind the bridge at Café de Alma. The method is set out in The Pleasures of the Table.
Herzegovina wine is a second reason to linger. The wines are not famous internationally; their character comes from limestone ground and a hot valley. The signature white is Žilavka and the red Blatina, both described in The Pleasures of the Table. A glass on a terrace above the Neretva, a small winery outside the city, or a wine shop in Mostar where someone will talk about the grapes is the easy way in.
A free excerpt from Mostar Alone.
PRACTICAL SAMPLE
Violent crime against tourists is rare. The usual risks are pickpocketing in the crowds on Stari Most and Kujundžiluk and padded bills near the main sights (see Practical Matters). The historic center around the bridge stays busy into the evening, with cafés and restaurants open in the bazaar lanes, especially in summer.
Beyond the historic center, the residential streets on both banks of the Neretva are calm but have little open after dark, and visitors rarely have reason to go to the outer suburbs. For a late return from anywhere quiet, phone a taxi firm (see Planning Your Escape); Safe at Night, below, has the specific actions.
A specific note: the war left unexploded ordnance in some rural areas. The US State Department lists Bosnia and Herzegovina at Level 2 (exercise increased caution), with landmines among the reasons. Central Mostar and the routes in this guide are well used, but stay on paved roads and marked paths and do not wander into the surrounding hills without local guidance. This is a real consideration here that does not apply in most European destinations. See Practical Matters for the full note.
A free excerpt from Mostar Alone.
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Coffee comes in a copper pot with a tiny handleless cup, and the sitting takes a good hour. Afterward, wander the Old Bazaar's stone lanes toward the arch of the bridge over the Neretva.
$6.99 ebook
Ebook · Updated Q4 2026
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Two of its three day plans: “The Weight of the City” and “Out of the City”.
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Read the free 3-page sample (PDF) →No. The guide stands on its own. The kit is a separate, optional pack of decisions, day plans and a booking list. Read the free 3-page sample to see whether it suits the way you plan.

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