Dubrovnik
Alone

PRACTICAL SAMPLE

Restaurant Strategy

Skip Stradun for dinner; its restaurants survive on passing volume and charge for the address. One caution: Prijeko, the lane parallel to Stradun on the north side, is the Old Town’s restaurant row, and its waiters call you in from the doorway, which is the sign to keep walking. The touts are a reason to walk past the menu-boards; the few Prijeko places listed in this book are exceptions, and booking ahead skips the pitch. The better rooms are two or three lanes up the stairs, or below the south wall, or outside the walls altogether in Gruž and Lapad, where the rents are a fraction of the Old Town’s and the plates show it.

Find a restaurant, eat there twice, and make it yours. In a city this small, being recognized at Kopun or at the D’Vino counter is worth more than trying somewhere new every night.

A free excerpt from Dubrovnik Alone.