Oaxaca Alone cover

Mexico · Available now

Oaxaca
Alone

Oaxaca's colonial center is built of green cantera stone, and the black pottery and woven rugs sold here come from valley villages like San Bartolo Coyotepec and Teotitlán del Valle. Follow one craft out of town.

$6.99 ebook

Ebook · Updated Q4 2026

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Where you might stay

  • BudgetParador del Dominicostaffed desk and a shared terrace
  • Mid-rangeNaNa Vidacourtyard-facing rooms with space to spread out
  • A treatGrand Fiesta Americana Oaxacafull-service hotel with restaurant and room service

Two places to eat alone

  • Mercado 20 de NoviembreComedor counters put you beside market workers at lunch.
  • Mercado de la MercedNeighborhood market meals among residents, away from tour groups.

SAMPLE

Why Oaxaca

Mexico City gets the headlines. Oaxaca gets the people who come back. It is a smaller, quieter proposition: a colonial city of green cantera stone set in a highland valley, ringed by mountains, built as the capital of a state that is home to more Indigenous language groups than any other in Mexico. That fact is not decoration. It is the reason the city eats the way it does, sells the crafts it sells, and feels, even after a single afternoon, like the surface of something much larger.

Put plainly, Oaxaca is a walkable colonial city and the capital of an intensely Indigenous state. Almost everything worth traveling for here (the food, the textiles, the mezcal, the black pottery of San Bartolo Coyotepec, the rugs of Teotitlán del Valle) was made somewhere else, in villages across the valley, and brought into the city to be sold, eaten, and admired. Oaxaca de Juárez, the city proper, is a market town and a stage. The valley is the workshop. Understanding that distinction early will change how you plan your days.

A free excerpt from Oaxaca Alone.

PRACTICAL SAMPLE

Eating Alone at the Market and the Comedor

The single most useful skill to bring to Oaxaca is comfort eating at a market counter, because this is where the city’s best and cheapest food is served, and it is served in a format built around solo diners as a matter of course. At Mercado 20 de Noviembre and Mercado Benito Juárez, both a short walk from the Zócalo, you order at a stall, take a numbered stool at a shared counter, and eat next to whoever else is there, tourists and residents both, with no expectation of conversation and no awkwardness if you would rather read or people-watch. The pasillo de humo, the smoke passage at 20 de Noviembre where grilled meats are cooked over charcoal and served with fresh tortillas and salsas, is the best-known version of this, but every neighborhood market in the city runs on the same model at a smaller scale. Point at what you want if your Spanish is thin; the transaction works perfectly well without much shared vocabulary.

A free excerpt from Oaxaca Alone.

Inside this book

  • Oaxaca Awaits
  • A City Shaped by History
  • Planning Your Escape
  • The Solo Woman’s Oaxaca
  • Bases and Barrios
  • Days in Oaxaca
View the chapter contents
  • Oaxaca Awaits
  • A City Shaped by History
  • Planning Your Escape
  • The Solo Woman’s Oaxaca
  • Bases and Barrios
  • Days in Oaxaca
  • Art, Culture & Creativity
  • The Pleasures of the Table
  • Evening & After Dark
  • Retail Therapy
  • Beyond the City: Day Trips
  • Conversation Notes
  • Practical Matters

BUY THE GUIDE

Oaxaca Alone

Oaxaca's colonial center is built of green cantera stone, and the black pottery and woven rugs sold here come from valley villages like San Bartolo Coyotepec and Teotitlán del Valle. Follow one craft out of town.

$6.99 ebook

Ebook · Updated Q4 2026

Instant download · Secure checkout by Payhip