
Bratislava Alone
Bratislava, small capital on the Danube.
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Much of Warsaw's historic center was rebuilt after 1945 from paintings and photographs, so a baroque facade may be younger than it looks. Across the Vistula, Praga has galleries, street art and standing-room espresso bars.
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SAMPLE
The city is divided by the Vistula River. The left bank (zachodnia strona), the western side, is where Warsaw was born as a medieval settlement and grew to become the capital of Poland. It holds the historic center: the Old Town, the Royal Castle, and the Royal Route stretching south from it. This is where most visitors spend most of their time.
The right bank (wschodnia strona), the Praga district, held heavy industry and workers’ housing in the Communist era. It is now the city’s art quarter: galleries, street art, bars in converted factories, vintage shops, and espresso bars where you drink standing at the counter.
A free excerpt from Warsaw Alone.
PRACTICAL SAMPLE
Stary Dom takes a different line. The kitchen works in game and roasted meats: aged venison with acidic accompaniments and forest mushrooms, roast goose with lacquered skin. The restaurant’s atmosphere evokes a hunting lodge of the sort that existed in the country estates of Warsaw’s surroundings; it sits on ul. Puławska in Mokotów, south of the center but a short tram ride away. Stary Dom is more accessible than Epoka while still serious, and it is mid-priced.
Elixir by Dom Wódki is built around the idea that good Polish vodkas can be paired with food as seriously as wine. A vodka pairing is available with dishes on request, giving the meal a clear focus on Polish vodka. The restaurant sits on ul. Wierzbowa by Plac Teatralny, near the Grand Theater, a short walk from the Old Town. It is higher-priced, and drinks are extra. Ask about the vodka pairing when you book.
A free excerpt from Warsaw Alone.
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Much of Warsaw's historic center was rebuilt after 1945 from paintings and photographs, so a baroque facade may be younger than it looks. Across the Vistula, Praga has galleries, street art and standing-room espresso bars.
$6.99 ebook
Ebook · Updated Q4 2026
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One of the kit's three day plans is “Krakowskie Przedmieście to Nowy Świat”.
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Bratislava, small capital on the Danube.
$6.99 · EPUB ebook
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Gdańsk, milk bars and Baltic seafood.
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Kraków, from Rynek Główny to Kazimierz.
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Prague, bridge, castle and a Letná sunset.
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